Wednesday, November 23, 2011

Revolution 2.0

Protesters wearing gas masks in Mohamed Mahmoud Street via www.arabawy.org
Entering its sixth day, the recent protests in Tahrir Square have grown immensely with thousands more Egyptians going to the square. I have been glued to twitter and the internet for the past two days, keeping a close watch as new updates unfold from state news, activists and journalists on the line.  The majority of the actual violence has been isolated to Mohamed Mahmoud street (شارع محمد محمود), a street just off the square downtown.  From what I understand, a front line of fighting has been formed on the street between the CSF (central security forces) or riot police and the protesters. Mohamed Mahmoud street leads to the Interior Ministry but it appears unclear at this point what certain protestors hope to do once they reach the ministry building.

I have known a number of foreigners that have gone down to Tahrir Square over the past few days.  The girl who worked in my same position asked me early yesterday afternoon if I wanted to accompany her yesterday.  Given the number of deaths, tear gas (US-made), guns and rock throwing, I was predictably hesitant.  But according to her, Tahrir Square itself is quite safe, as long as you stay away from Mohamed Mahmoud street. While my urge to witness history in the square itself is overwhelming, there are a few reasons I have not gone to the square. 

Monday, November 21, 2011

Following the Clashes via Twitter, A Sample





 Mahmoud Salem 

Agree or disagree with  , people are dying there. Get medical supplies like me & head there. We must save those infront of us.

 Mahmoud Salem 

Agree or disagree with  , people are dying there. Get medical supplies like me & head there. We must save those infront of us.

 Sonia Verma 

Interviewing Egyptian Presidential candidate Bothaina Kamal on the phone. Soldiers sexually assaulted her when they arrested her. 

 Omnia E.Al Desoukie 

a doctor who went to save people from the fire that took place in the building next to moi, was shot in his head.
 المشير أبو كار 

Protests in Cairo, Alex, Port Said, Damietta, Zagazig RT

 Blake Hounshell 

USA! USA! RT : The Cairo embassy Facebook page just posted an article on using iPads to vote. Total disconnect.
Retweeted by 

Tahrir Clashes Continue Since Saturday

Egyptian riot police beat a protestor as they run through the street in downtown Tahrir
Photo credit: Khalil Hamra/AP (see the rest of the photos here)
Over the past few days there have been continuous protests in Tahrir square and in the surrounding governates such as Alexandria. The source of the violence can be traced back to a peaceful demonstration that began on Friday, not too much unlike the protests that occur every Friday after prayers in Tahrir Square, however there was more excitement surrounding this particular protest and the number of participants was much higher.

Due to the size of Friday's protest, people remained in the square until the next day when in the afternoon, riot police arrive to clear them out. Since Saturday, the violence has escalated at an alarming rate as tear gas fills the air, rubber bullets are shot and rocks are thrown from both sides. The number of people dead is hard to determine amongst the chaos.  I most recently read 24, but I have heard as high as 100, and thousands are injured.

Unfortunately for those of you reading, a poetic, on-the-scene, eye witness post is not to follow. While I spend a vast majority of my day at AUC's campus in New Cairo (45 minutes to 1 hour outside of town), even when I am at my apartment in Zamalek (10 minutes away from Tahrir) it has been eerily quiet the past few days.  The state-broadcasted news has been consistently on the big screen tv in the lobby and maybe only four or five people are sitting down watching it. Crazy how minutes away from the deadly clashes people can go about their days like nothing has changed. Is this the case in every country?

As much as the most recent violence, i.e. current violence, is unprecedented since the "revolution" in terms of protesters vs. police clashes in Tahrir, it does not reflect the opinions of all Egyptians. Speaking to my co-workers today afterwork, they were frustrated at the timing of the violence, now six days before the first round of elections, and seemed to fault the protesters equally as much as the riot police. According to them, it is important for Egyptians to see the parliamentary elections through even though they won't be perfect--that is a given when trying to reestablish a government from scratch.

Furthermore they expressed frustration at the lack of a cohesive approach of the protestors.  What do they want exactly?  Of course they want SCAF (Supreme Council of Armed Forced) to ceed to civilian rule, but isn't that what the parliamentary elections was working towards?

I am not saying anything against the protestors. They have a right and a reason (many reasons) to be frustrated and fed up with SCAF in power.  But I think it is important to highlight the spectrum of opinions in the country when the news tends to be dominated by headlining violence. I like the way my one co-worker put it, "They all seem to be singing the same song and if you're not singing it, well..." My other co-worker agreed, "If you ever write anything against the protests on Facebook you are immediately attacked.  So no one writes anything against them."

One thing for sure is these protests are the worst it has been since protests prior to Mubarak's ousting. Previously, protests and violence was predominately in Cairo, but these clashes are echoed throughout the country. It is possible this might lead to a mass evacuation of foreigners, similar to the one following the January 25th protests.

On campus, a group of students responded to the arrest of Ahmed Rahim, an AUC undergraduate, by protesting outside the Administration Building yesterday, demanding the AUC administration to intervene to help free him. At the same time just a five minute walk away on campus, four parliamentary hopefuls and AUC alumni spoke outside to a small crowd of people about how the elections will work in Egypt. This scene in itself makes me wonder whether parliamentary elections will happen in six days.  The process is complicated and new, and Egyptians have 41 political parties to choose from, literally all over the map.

Now imagine that you are the one in every four Egyptians that are illiterate.
Map by Jacopo Carbonari as posted on arabist.net.
As for me, I am glued to the news, specifically twitter. As much as twitter is a platform of self-importance to many in the United States, it is an important and impressively effective news source in Cairo. There is practically no delay between the time something happens and my ability to read it online from one of the Egyptian activists or journalists I follow. It is incredible.

I am also safe. Granted, I did have to go to the hospital on Saturday after severely cutting my pinky finger when the glass I was washing broke. After panicking for 10 minutes at the massive amount of blood, I called a friend and we decided it would be best to bandage it up ourselves and wait for the clinic to open in my building four hours later. The woman at the clinic sent me right to the hospital. Seven stitches! I tried to get away with not getting any (I was for some reason under the impression that they do not numb your finger) but the nurse insisted, "You are a lady, you can't have a big scar on your finger!"  Well, if it means I'm choosing between a scar and a husband, I guess I'll get the stitches.

More updates to come as the protests continue. 

Saturday, November 19, 2011

Why buy vegetables when you could buy camels?

Yesterday I set out on a long anticipated trip to… the camel market! The souq al gamal (camel market in Arabic) is the largest camel market in Cairo, located in the town of Birqash, a small village on the outskirts of the desert, about 35 km northwest of Cairo.  We read that the market it at its best between 8 and 10 am so we set out in a taxi bright and early.

Once at the market it was, as expected, a sea of men and well, camels. Within the first few minutes it was clear that I was the only female there.  Typical. As for the market itself, it was quite a sight as hundreds of camels were gathered in the same place. The camels that end up at the Birqash market are first brought up the Forty Days Road from western Sudan to be sold at a market in Daraw, located in upper Egypt (called upper Egypt even though it is technically southern Egypt as the Nile flows south) close to the border with Sudan.  According to one man we spoke to, it is typical for the camels to be walked the entire road aka for forty miles. Yikes! For the camels not sold in Daraw, they are trucked up to Birqash.  While I would like to think that all camels gallivant through the Sahara, occasionally holding a tourist or two, these camels are primarily bought to be eaten.

The scene was also not for the faint of heart. The camel sellers continuously beat their camels to keep them in line.  In the video below, the man in the back is auctioning off the camel in the center of the group.  I don't know how the auctioning works exactly, but I think this one went for around 7,000 pounds (approximately $1,200).  The prices seemed to range between 5,000 and 7,000 pounds.


Once the camels are sold they are dragged and hit with sticks (very much against their will) into the trucks that will transport them elsewhere.  While this process was much too unsettling for me to watch, the result is quite humorous as you casually see camel heads popping out of the backs of trucks on the roads to and from the market.

Sold camel hanging out in a truck
While the men and boys with sticks continually beat the camels to move where they want or stay in the same place, the camels still manage to run away here or there.  Unfortunately camels are not concerned with where they are running and I had to be pulled out of the way a few times to avoid being trampled.

Tyler, one of the guys I went with, was speaking to the man standing next to him during one of the auctions.  The man questioned why we were at the camel market at all since most tourists want to come to Egypt to ride a camel for a few minutes then go home. He may have been joking, (sometimes hard to tell in another language) but he also asked if Tyler was a spy.  I suppose it is odd for Egyptians to see foreigners at a market that is very normal for them, snapping away at the spectacle. But personally, I would take seeing camels bought in bulk at a market in the village over a camel ride at the Pyramids any day.  Also, what kind of bizarre spies would we be that we are checking up on the ins and outs of camel sales?



Camel waiting to be sold. Their left thighs and calves are tied together to prevent them from running away.
Quick update: As I write I am sitting by the TV downstairs in my hostel and watching the worst violence in Tahrir since the Maspero incidents. Right now I only know that protesters are injured and there was a good amount of tear gas and rubber bullets shot by the police. However, it appears as though violence is calming down.  Eerie how calm the rest of Cairo seems blocks away from the chaos.

All is well as usual on the island.

-jill

Sunday, November 13, 2011

Bring Back the Blog!

After my brief fling with group emails, I've decided I would prefer to return to my long term relationship with my blog.  Suits me better I think.  While this means I am giving up the ability to say wildly inappropriate and culturally insensitive things, I noticed that I don't say wildly inappropriate or culturally insensitive things. Well, perhaps a few of the latter but this is mostly unintentional.

For those of you who do not know, I am living in Cairo for the year as a part of the Presidential Scholars Program at the American University in Cairo (AUC).  I am the scholar in the Office of University Communications, aka web-master and king and dictator (yes, both) of the daily university bulletin, news@auc. Beware, I control the University's announcements and events, so if you get on my bad side I may change the time of that event you posted on the public calendar so no one will attend!

In reality, I am trying to revamp the program to live up to its full potential.  It is unfortunately lacking right now as the program founder and coordinator of 30 years left last January and then there was that small revolution that turned the country upside down. My first major milestone was completely revamping the website with Michelle, the scholar in the Office of the President.  Not too bad, eh? You would certainly think so if you had seen the old website (eek!). Speaking of... applications for next year's program are now open!

Since I am getting a late start to my life in Cairo, I will try to make up for lost time with extra pictures, anecdotes and a better low-down of the situation in Egypt.

Things to look forward to:

  -  Parliamentary elections in late November and December
  -  All about my trip to Siwa during Eid al Adha this past week
  -  My family is coming to Egypt for Christmas (this one should be interesting to say the least...)
  -  More pensive pictures of me looking off into the distance with the desert in the background

Most importantly, thank you for reading.

Jill

photo credit to Nancy Naser Al Deen